Peniche Surf Camp

Portugal: Peniche

A range of accommodation options from basic to luxury are offered here with a reef break in front of the camp and many beachbreaks within walking distance.

Rates & Packages

Malibu Package 2017 (Accommodation and Surf Classes)

The prices below are for shared accommodation. If you wish you may choose other types of accommodation options, like private apartments, or private rooms.

  1 night 
2 classes
7 nights 
10 classes
14 nights 
20 classes
14 November to 20 March 52 € 252 € 440 €
20 March to 11 June
11 September to 29 October
68 € 354 € 644 €
12 June to 9 July
21 August to 10 September
70 € 368 € 672 €
10 July to 20 August 85 € 463 € 862 €

 

Funboard Package 2017 (Accommodation and Surf Equipment)

The prices bellow are for shared accommodation. If you wish you may choose other types of accommodation options, like private apartments, or private rooms. 

  1 night 
1 day Rentals
3 nights
3 days Rentals
7 nights
7 days Rentals
14 nights
14 days Rentals
14 November to 20 March 35 € 96 € 203 € 392 €
20 March to 11 June
11 September to 29 October
46 € 129 € 280 € 546 €
12 June to 9 July
21 August to 10 September
48 € 139 € 294 € 574 €
10 July to 20 August 58 € 165 € 364 € 714 €


Shortboard Package 2017 (Only Accommodation)

The prices bellow are for shared accommodation. If you wish you may choose other types of accommodation options, like private apartments, or private rooms.

  1 night
7 nights
14 nights
14 November to 20 March 12 € 77 € 140 €
20 March to 11 June
11 September to 29 October
23 € 154 € 294 €
12 June to 9 July
21 August to 10 September
25 € 168 € 322 €
10 July to 20 August 35 € 238 € 462 €

 

Apartments

Please contact LUEX for details


Surf Classes

If you already have a place to stay but wish to join our surf classes, this package is intended for you.

  1surf class
3 day
2 surf classes
5 days
10 surf classes
10 days
20 surf classes
14 November to 20 March 25 € 45 € 200 € 392 €
20 March to 11 June
11 September to 29 October
30 € 50 € 225 € 546 €
10 July to 20 August 30 € 50 € 225 € 574 €
10 July to 20 August 35 € 60 € 250 € 714 €

 

Private Surf Classes

 

1 person

2 persons

3 persons

All Year

50€

90€

135€

Surf school is open all year round including weekends.Note:

  • One day includes 1 surf class.

 

Equipment Rental

Peniche Surf Camp has a wide variety of equipment to rent, from shortboards to longboards, every size wetsuit and bikes.

 

2 hours

half day

1 day

3 days

1 week

Surfboard (fiberglass)

15 €

20 €

25 €

69 €

140 €

Surfboard (epoxy)

10 €

15 €

20 €

54 €

105 €

Wetsuit

5 €

8 €

10 €

27 €

56 €

Surfboard (fibra) +Wetsuit

15 €

20 €

30 €

84 €

175 €

Surfboard (epoxy) + Wetsuit

12 €

18 €

25 €

69 €

140 €

Bike Rental

5 €

10 €

15 €

29 €

59 €

 

Services

Transfers

Lisbon Airport

1 a 4 people

5 or 6 people

7 or 8 people

8:00 - 22:00

100€

110€

135€

22:00 - 8:00

120€

130€

155€

From Faro

250€

Contactus

Contact us

 Notes: 

  • prices are for one way.
  • The price for 1 person coming alone that reserved transfer both ways has special price of 175 EUR.

 

Laundry

 

Price

Laundry

3€/Kg

What is included / What not

Malibu Package (Accommodation and Surf Classes) includes:

  • Accommodation in the camp, less than 50 meters from the beach
  • surf classes, transfers to the beach, vídeo analysis (minimum 3 days surf classses), surfboard and wetsuit suited for the surf classes.
  • Full surf accident insurance for the surf classes
  • Obtain discounts at our Surf Camp Surf Shop
  • Apartments with fully equiped kitchen
  • Cable TV and DVD in all the apartments
  • A wide variety of DVD movies to select from
  • Internet access in our computers at the reception or in yours if you bring your own computer
  • Free transfers to and from the Peniche Bus Station if you have minimum of 7 nights of accommodation and 5 days surf classes
  • All the local information you may need

 

Funboard Package (Accommodation and Surf Equipment) includes:

  • Accommodation in the camp, less than 50 meters from the beach
  • Epoxy Surfboard and wetsuit rental for each day.
  • Obtain discounts at our Surf Camp Surf Shop
  • Apartments with fully equiped kitchen
  • Cable TV and DVD in all the apartments
  • A wide variety of DVD movies to select from
  • Internet access in our computers at the reception or in yours if you bring your own computer
  • Free transfers to and from the Peniche Bus Station if you have minimum of 7 nights of accommodation and 7 days of surf equipment
  • All the local information you may need 

 

Shortboard Package (Only Accommodation) includes:

  • Accommodation in the camp, less than 50 meters from the beach
  • Obtain discounts at our Surf Camp Surf Shop
  • Apartments with fully equiped kitchen
  • Cable TV and DVD in all the apartments
  • A wide variety of DVD movies to select from
  • Internet access in our computers at the reception or in yours if you bring your own computer
  • All the local information you may need

 

Surf Classes Package includes:

  •        5 days of surf lessons, 2 sessions a day, 2 hours per session, transfers to the beach included
  •        Video analysis (minimum 3 days surf classes)
  •        Surfboard and wetsuit adequate to your needs during the surf lessons
  •        Full insurance for the surf classes
  •        Discount Peniche Surf Shop
  •        All the local information you may need

Extended Description

Surf Classes

The Surf school is based on our experience, you and the best equipment available. The school is open to people of all ages, skill levels and nationalities. You will be taught by highly qualified and experienced surfers and surf teachers who are also life guards. Each week you will be taught for 5 days, with 2 surf sessions a day. Everyday you will be on the search. Peniche has so many waves that it is possible to surf several surf spots on the same day. We just have to be at the right spot at the right time. At the same time you are surfing you are visiting different beaches. You'll never get bored. In the evenings we have informal seminars, watch and comment on the video filmed during the day time classes.

 

Beginners Course

You‘ll be given a surfboard and wetsuit best suited to you. Your classes include all the basics, from learning how to look after a wetsuit and laying on a board, to surfing the green section of the wave. Then, according to your development, you may change to the advance group and learn other techniques. On Tuesdays and Thursdays all surf practice is filmed for later comment and discussion.


Class program:

  • Basic knowledge of surfing equipment and Peniche surfing geography
  • Recognition of the beaches and currents
  • Wave shapes and approaches
  • Safety rules
  • Paddling techniques
  • Sitting on and turning the board
  • The "duck-dive" or "eskimo-roll"(diving through the waves with the board)
  • Getting to your feet – Standing up Surfing broken waves
  • Surf history
  • Priority rules
  • Learn how a surfboard is made
  • Position in the line up to catch unbroken waves
  • Surf the green waves – bottom turn
  • Advanced manouvres
  • Class championship: understand how a surf championship works and be part of one. (This activity will be held if there are enough participants in a class)
  • Plus 15 hours of surf practice

 

Advanced Course 

To be in this group you don't need to be world champion. You just need to know the basics. We developed this group because many people came to us and had surfed before. If you are one of these you don't have to go through all the basics again. We created the advanced group for you.  The focus of this group is on your individual surfing. After you learn how to take off on a wave and start to develop your own style, your specific surf problems need to be pointed out immediately so that you develop quickly and properly through individual advice. The 2 weekly video analysis sessions will be invaluable at this stage.


Class program: 

  • Brief surfer diagnosis
  • Review surfing basics
  • Paddling and turning for the wave techniques (tricks and details)
  • Priority rules (review)
  • How a surfboard works
  • Distinguish types of waves and which surf you must apply on each of them
  • The “Bottom turn” and its importance for wave riding success
  • The importance of the upper body for the bottom turn.
  • “Duck dive” techniques
  • The “off the lip”
  • The “cut – back”
  • General surf manouvres
  • Ding repair workshop (learn how to repair your own surf board)

 

Surfboards and Wetsuits

Peniche Surf Camp is proud of our large variety of surfboards. We have more than 150 boards to choose from, in all shapes and sizes. This means that you will have the opportunity not only to surf with the right surfboard for your level but also you will have opportunity to try other types of surfboards. If you are learning you can try a Malibu surfboard. If you already have some experience you can try several types of shortboards to find out which one works best for you. The wetsuits that Peniche Surf Camp use are Rip Curl! We have more than 250 to choose from, in all sizes, for children, men and women. Rip Curl is one of the best companies manufacturing wetsuits in the world. Rip Curl was founded in Australia in 1969 and sponsors surfers like Tom Curren, Mick Fanning and others. The Rip Curl wetsuits include Elastomax in the upper body part to give you maximum freedom of movement. You won't feel like you are trapped in your wetsuit.

 

Video Sessions

Twice a week, on Tuesdays and Thursdays, the classes get filmed and we organize a video session in the surf camp, usually followed by a barbecue. In the video session you get to see yourself surfing, which is the best way for you to understand where you can improve.

 

Championship

When there are enough people in the surf classes we like to hold a Surfing Championship at the end of the Surf Course week. Surely, you have already seen on the television or been to a beach and seen a surf championship. If you ever wondered how the professional surfers feel during the competition, Peniche Surf Camp gives you this opportunity. But most importantly you will learn the rules of how a surf championship works.

Join in and you will have lots of fun.


How to get there 

 

Arriving in Portugal by plane

Portugal has 3 major airports, with international flights. Porto in the North, Lisbon in the Centre and Faro in the South. The best airport for those wishing to come to Peniche Surf Camp is Lisbon airport, but it's not hard getting to Peniche from any other airport. Choose the city where you'll be arriving to see more information on how to get to Peniche.

  

Transfers 

We can pick you up from any where! We have a fast, safe and prompt transfer service. At the airport there will be a person holding a board, with your name written on it. This person is the driver who will bring you to Peniche Surf Camp. Lisbon airport is 1 hour drive away.

 

Arriving to Peniche Surf Camp by car

There are 3 major routes into Portugal for those coming from other European countries. The North entrance, through Salamanca, the Centre entrance through Badajoz and the South entrance through Sevilha / Huelva.

 

Arriving to Peniche Surf Camp from Lisbon

Central Bus Station: Terminal Sete Rios

Subway Station: Sete Rios

Train station: Sete Rios

Distance from Peniche: 94 km

 

Arriving to Peniche Surf Camp from Porto

Bus Station: Garagem Atlantico

Distance from Peniche: 285 km

 

Arriving to Peniche Surf Camp from Faro 

Bus Station: Terminal Rodoviário

Distance from Peniche: 391 km

 

Arriving to Peniche Surf Camp from Peniche

All the road signs will take you to Peniche. Once you arrive at Peniche, you must look for the sign that will take you to "Casais do Baleal" or "Baleal".

Once in Baleal, after the parking and the turn, we are located 300 meters on your left. You will see a big house, blue and white with small panels surfboard panels showing Peniche Surf Camp.

You can also get the bus from Peniche to Baleal.

 

 

Surf Manual

Surf Manual (Surf) 

Surfing

Surfing is a surface water sport in which you are carried by a breaking wave on a surfboard. There are various kinds of surfing: regular stand-up surfing, kneeboarding, bodyboarding, bodysurfing and tow-in surfing. Tow-in surfing involves motorized craft to tow the surfer onto the wave. It is associated with surfing huge waves, which are extremely difficult to ride and sometimes impossible to catch by paddling down the face, due to their rapid forward motion.

 

Surfers

Surfers represent a diverse culture that depends on the naturally occurring process of ocean waves. Some people practice surfing as a recreational activity while others demonstrate extreme devotion to the sport by making it the central focus of their lives.


Paddling

One of the keys to good surfing is learning how to correctly paddle the surfboard. A good paddler catches plenty of waves while poor paddlers spend most of their time and energy missing them. Here are a few tips on how to get the most out of your surfing by developing your paddling skills. The beginner frequently has difficulty paddling because of poor body positioning on the board. If you are too far back on the board it will tilt up in the front and you will be pushing water, this will slow you down. If you are too far forward on your surfboard then the nose will sink or pearl. Remember, your surfboard is balanced correctly and under control when the nose is one or two inches out of the water. The flatter the board is on the surface of the water the better it will glide. Try to feel comfortable on your board, be centered and look closely at the tip as you begin paddling. Paddle one arm at a time. Stretch the arm outright, fingertips pointed and together and have the hand enter the water smoothly. Bring the arm down and through, making sure to complete the stroke at the finish. Keep your eyes focused towards the tip of your board to make sure that the surfboard is flat on the water and that you are pointed straight in toward the beach. This will help you get the right angle into the wave. When you are paddling out to get to the surf, take your time and don’t rush. Depending on where you are surfing, the first paddle out from shore can be difficult and you can get tired quickly. You may have to paddle a long way or for a long time, so take it easy, don't burn out. The difficulty in paddling out is more due to the prevailing surf conditions and how well you deal with the oncoming surf, than it is how fast you can paddle. When you try to paddle in to the whitewater wave, or if you have advanced to the outside, you must sprint to catch the wave. Eight or nine of the hardest deepest strokes that you can summon up. You must bring the surfboard up to speed as the oncoming wave rushes up from behind, while remaining perpendicular to the wave.


Catching waves

The whitewater is where beginners start their surfing experience. You want to spend enough time in the whitewater to learn how to pop up on your board and land in the sweet spot so you can ride. The whitewater wave pushes the board across the flat water. This gives beginners as much time as is necessary to get up on their feet. Later on, after figuring out the landing in the whitewater, you can try the more exciting green wave on the outside. The green wave is far more challenging because of its slope, and should only be attempted after meeting success in the whitewater. When catching and riding whitewater waves, try to be selective. You want a wave that has enough power to move you along for a good distance. Choose waves that look organized and are moving straight in toward the beach. Walk out holding on to your surfboard near the nose, with most of the board training behind you. Try to always keep your board pointed straight out as you head out, or straight in as you get ready to go on the wave. Avoid letting your surfboard swing around sideways or the next onrushing wave may return your board into you in an unfriendly manner. Walk out just past your waist and then see if you have enough time to turn your board around. If so, lift your board in the middle using two hands and point it straight toward the beach. The only three things that matter in catching the whitewater are: the board and the wave must be perpendicular to one another, the body must be centered properly on the board, and the board must be already moving into the beach when the wave hits you. So, as your wave approaches you, line up the board so it is pointed straight towards the beach, and when the wave is about 10 yards away, jump onto your board and begin to paddle. As you go you must keep your board perpendicular and flat. Too much angle to the beach will cause the board to flip over. You must also have your body centered correctly. If the wave hits you and you are too far forward on your surfboard, you will pearl or nosedive. Too far back on the board and you won't catch the wave. You will need 7 or 8 strokes to get up enough speed to catch the wave. As the whitewater wave rushes onto the back of the board, stop paddling and hold on tight to the rails at chest level. As the wave hits you hold tight. You will then feel the wave pick you up and propel you in front of it. Now is when you want to pop up, landing in the middle of the board. Timing and wave judgement are crucial and your success rate will increase as your timing improves. Most beginners will spend anywhere from three to five days learning the hop-up and figuring out how to balance on the board in the whitewater before they are ready to attempt paddling out and riding the unbroken waves.


Standing up

Keeping your surfboard flat underneath you while you surf can only be accomplished after you understand how to keep your weight centered in the middle of the board. Here are a few tips on how to get it done. When you surf, you stand sideways on the surfboard. With either the right foot near the back, which is called "regularfoot", or with the left foot towards the back, which is called "goofyfoot". It is the upper part of your body that needs to be most centered. Keep your hips centered over your feet and legs shoulder width apart. Then you can use weight shifts by applying more weight to one foot or the other to keep the board flat. The flatter the board stays the farther you will go on the wave. When you land on the surfboard your front foot should be near the center and your back foot about 18 inches to two feet from the back. The wider apart you can spread them the better, as you will need a wide low stable stance in order to rise up and be in control of the board.

 

Pop up

To come up to your feet after catching a wave you need to grab your board at the rail. It is very important that you reach back to the middle of your chest, right at the bottom of your ribcage, just like when doing a push-up. First, bring the shoulders up until the elbows lock, while leaving your knees on the back of the board. Now summon all of your strength, and using your stomach and leg muscles kick your hips up as high as they will go. Bring your feet off the back of the surfboard and bring them underneath you and land in the middle of the board. Both feet leave the board at the same time and both feet land back down at the same time. Be careful not to bring the back foot up too far or your stance will be too narrow. Once you begin to land in the middle the surfboard, it will remain flat so you can release your hands from the rails and rise. As you come up into the stance, continue looking at your surfboard as you may need to start shifting your weight right away. Once you are up well, look to the beach and you are surfing! Practice this technique in the whitewater until you can come up and surf at least half of the time. Then you will be ready to paddle out.

 

Paddling out 

Once the surf reaches the head high to a few feet overhead zone paddling out will be an issue unless you are surfing a spot with a good channel or you are surfing a point where you can paddle out around the energy instead of through it. If not, strap on your paddling muscles. It´s not about how fast you can paddle as much as how well you deal with the oncoming surf. When paddling out we must consider the whitewater the enemy. Whenever possible you will want to lift up and go over the soup or dive down to go under the white stuff. The bad news is that because you are a beginner you must be on a bigger board in order to surf and bigger boards don't dive under well. So, you are going to be stuck on the surface where all of the energy is. When encountering an onrushing whitewater wave, try to go straight into it. As perpendicular as possible, the more off angle the wave hits you the more ground you will lose. Walk out as far as possible, jumping over the waves while holding on tight to your board. Once you are out to chest deep wait for a calm period, or a lull before you start your paddle out. When you come to a small whitewater wave simply lift your upper body up by grabbing the rails of your surfboard at the ribcage and lift your head and shoulders above the white stuff. This method works fine until the waves get bigger. Bigger waves will be more powerful and all of that energy is up on the surface where you are so you have to go under to get out. Jus. Bigger waves will be more powerful and all of that energy is up on the surface where you are so you have to go under to get out. Just before the wave is going to slam you, you must turn the board upside down, you being under the board. Grab the rails tight, keep it close to the upper body and stay upside down until the wave rolls over you. When the wave is over, roll back into paddling position and get moving until the next wave approaches you. If you find that the waves are more powerful than you thought and you are not in total control of your surfboard then you should not try to go all of the way out. Stay inside and work on your skills and get stronger for the next swell.


Surf Manual (Surf maneuvers) 

Surfing begins with the surfer eyeing a rideable wave on the horizon and then matching its speed (by paddling or sometimes, in huge waves, by tow-in). When a surfer catches a wave he quickly jumps to his or her feet and proceeds to ride down the face of the wave, generally staying just ahead of the breaking part (white water) of the wave, called "the pocket" or "the curl". Surfers' skills are tested not only in their ability to control their board in challenging conditions and/or catch and ride challenging waves, but also by their ability to execute various maneuvers such as turning and carving. Some of the common turns have become recognizable tricks such as the "cutback" (turning back toward the breaking part of the wave), the "floater" (riding on the top of the breaking curl of the wave), and "off the lip" (banking off the top of the wave). A newer addition to surfing has been the progression of the "air" where a surfer is able to propel oneself off the wave and re-enter. "Tube riding" is when a surfer maneuvers into a position where the wave curls over the top of him or her, forming a "tube" (or "barrel"), with the rider inside the hollow cylindrical portion of the wave. This difficult and sometimes dangerous procedure is arguably the most coveted and sought after goal in surfing. "Hanging Ten" and "Hanging Five" are moves usually specific to longboarding. Hanging Ten refers to having both feet on the front end of the board with all ten of the surfer's toes off the edge. Hanging Five is having just one foot near the front, and five toes off the edge.


Common Terms:

  • Goofy foot - Left foot on back of board.
  • ake off - the start of a ride.
  • Drop in - dropping into (engaging) the wave, most often as part of standing up.
  • Drop in on (or "cut off") - taking off on a wave in front of someone else (considered inappropriate).
  • Snaking - paddling around someone to get into the best position for a wave (in essence, stealing it).
  • Bottom turn - the first turn at the bottom of the wave.
  • Shoulder - the unbroken part of the wave.
  • Cutback - a turn cutting back toward the breaking part of the wave.
  • Over the falls - out of control, going over the front of the wave and wiping out.
  • Pump - an up/down carving movement that generates speed along a wave.
  • Stall - slowing down from weight on the tail of the board or a hand in the water.
  • Floater - riding up on the top of the breaking part of the wave.
  • Hang-five/hang-ten - putting five or ten toes respectively over the nose of a longboard.
  • Re-entry - hitting the lip vertically and re-entering the wave in quick succession.
  • Switch-foot - having equal ability to surf regular foot or goofy foot.
  • Tube riding - riding inside the curl of a wave.
  • Carve - turns (often accentuated).
  • Off the Top - a turn on the top of a wave, either sharp or carving.
  • Snap - a quick, sharp turn off the top of a wave.
  • Fins-free snap - a sharp turn where the fins slide off the top of the wave.
  • Air/Aerial - airing off the top of the wave.


Surf Manual (Rules) 

Learning how to be safe out in the surf will insure you years of enjoyment and keep you free of hassles from the other surfers in the water. The main issue here is safety. Surfboards can be potentially dangerous if they come in contact with another rider or yourself. In other words, when they hit you, they really hurt. Good surfing waves have a peak, somewhere in the middle of the wave usually. This is the part of the wave that will break first and is the steepest part of the forming wave. The paddler closest to this peak has the right to the wave. Because we always surf away from the peak and the whitewater, where the peak is will dictate which way to go on the wave (left or right). If another surfer is paddling for the wave and is closer to the peak, it is his wave. If you drop in on him and he runs you over, it´s your fault. So do not "drop in" on people. It shows poor form and is potentially very dangerous. It can also seem to be a show of disrespect to another individual. This can create a problem. When paddling out, if you must get over a wave that someone is riding, paddle behind them (on the white water side). This generally means getting stuffed for the sake of someone else's ride. Do not paddle in front of someone unless you are so sure that you will be 20 feet in front of them. Do not surf in a big crowd or you are inviting trouble for yourself. Beginners do not need the best shaped, perfect wave anyway. The problem is this: all of the great surf spots are not a secret anymore and they are already overtaxed by surfers that have bonded with these places. If you go out there and start making mistakes, it can get ugly. The other breaks down the beach away from the shredders will be just fine and you can still enjoy the pure joy of surfing with just your friends, or even all by yourself.

 

Surf Manual (Surfing dangers) 

Surfing, like all water sports, has the obvious inherent danger of drowning, however this danger can be higher than in other water sports. When surfing, a surfer should not assume that they will always have their board to keep them buoyant - the leg rope could break or fall off some other way, and the board could become separated from the surfer by unpredictable wave crashes. A surfer needs to be confident that he/she can safely swim back to the beach unaided without his/her board. However, even if a surfer is confident in their swimming ability, there is always the possibility that the surfer could become hurt or even unconscious through a head collision with another surfer, their own board, or rocks, reefs, or hard sand on the bottom of the water, in which case they won't be able to swim at all. This is why it's also important to surf with others, or at least have someone watching out for you from the beach. Surf rage can be a problem in places where there are limited surfing breaks and many surfers trying to ride the breaks. This can be especially true if some unspoken agreement between the surfers about whose turn it is to take the break is not understood by one or more surfers, which can often be the case due to the informal and unspoken nature of this agreement.


Currents

Lateral Current

Since most waves break at an angle to the shoreline, they push water sideways, forming a current that moves parallel to the beach. This is called a lateral current. (side or longshore current). Generally, the larger the surf is, the stronger the lateral current will be. Lateral currents can push swimmers or divers downcoast into rocks and other dangerous obstacles. When lateral currents meet sandbars, large rocks, channels, or fixed obstacles like piers or jetties, the flow of water is diverted seaward, forming a rip current.

 

Rip Current

A rip current is a swift current of water which flows from shore out to sea. It is caused by an excess of water accumulating inside the surfline from the incoming wave action. Seeking its own natural level, the water flows back out to sea through the lowest point in the bottom. A strong current is created. A rip current can usually be identified by brownish, choppy water, which appears to be pulling out to sea. A rip current usually dissipates out beyond the surf zone, ending in a "mushroom shape." Rip currents are very dangerous and can pull people out to sea. If you get caught in a "rip", don’t panic. Swim parallel to shore until you are out of the rip current, then swim safely into shore.

 

Rocks

Rocks along the coastline are often covered with moss and algae and are very slippery. If the rocks are mossy or are wet from waves, that's a sure sign to exercise caution.

 

Other water safety tips

  • Always closely supervise children and non-swimmers near the water
  • Never turn your back to the ocean
  • Be aware of constantly changing ocean conditions
  • Observe all water safety warning signs
  • Don't drink alcohol
  • Respect the power of the sea and be careful


Surf Manual (Swell) 

The factor which most determines wave shape is the topography of the seabed directly behind and immediately beneath the breaking wave. The contours of the reef or sand bank influence wave shape in two respects. Firstly, the steepness of the incline is proportional to the resulting upthrust. When a swell passes over a sudden steep slope, the force of the upthrust causes the top of the wave to be thrown forward, forming a curtain of water which plunges to the wave trough below. Secondly, the alignment of the contours relative to the swell direction determines the duration of the breaking process. When a swell runs along a slope, it continues to peel for as long as that configuration lasts. When swell wraps into a bay or around an island, the breaking wave gradually diminishes in size, as the wave front becomes stretched by diffraction. For specific surf spots, the state of the ocean tide can play a significant role in the quality of waves or hazards of surfing there. Tidal variations vary greatly among the various global surfing regions, and the effect the tide has on specific spots can vary greatly among the spots within each area. You have to be sensitive to all these factors to get to know a surf break, and each break is different, since the underwater topography of one place is unlike any other. At beach breaks, even the sandbanks change shape from week to week, so it takes commitment to get good waves. Nowadays, surf forecasting is aided by advances in information technology, whereby mathematical modelling graphically depicts the size and direction of swells moving around the globe.